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Stabilizer Tips - Lesson 1 - for our customers who live too far away to take lessons from a dealer.
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You should use NON-WOVEN stabilizers in most applications, whether it be tearaway
or cutaway. Non-wovens will not stretch in any direction.
Once you've selected the design and fabric you want to use, the next step is selecting
the stabilizer that will give a successful stitchout.
TEST! Stitch a test on identical fabric before running an actual project.
If stability is needed, after fabrics have been washed, to control shrinkage and
prevent sagging of the embroidery, then a cutaway backing may be needed. If
stability is needed only during the stitch out process, a tear away stabilizer can
be used.
The embroidery process requires that the fabric be placed into a movable hoop system
under a stationary sewing machine head. In order for the stitches to "register" or be
placed exactly where the design dictates, the fabric needs to be fairly rigid in the hoop.
You might think of it as "drum-tight" hooping. But be careful not to confuse this with
"stretched tight", because this practice is the common cause of puckering and holes.
How do you know what to use?
How do you decide the stabilizer weight?
A general rule of thumb: Cutaways are used on knits, sweaters, sweatshirts...any
item that has a stretch in it. Tearaway is used on woven fabric, such as linen,
cotton, towels, etc.
Weight of the backing depends completely on the design and fabric makeup.
Fabric
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Needle
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Backing
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Topping
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Canvas, Heavy Denim such as blue jeans
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Sharp size 16 or 18
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If you are able to hoop this fabric: hoop with 1 layer of light tearaway and slide 1 layer of light tearaway underneath the hoop
If it's simply too thick to hoop: Hoop 1 layer of Peel and Stick or 1 layer of Light Sticky Back Sheets. Then, score the paper backing with a pin and remove. Adhere the fabric to the sticky surface.
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Cotton quilt fabric, Dress shirts
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Sharp size 11 or 12
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Hoop with 1 layer of medium tearaway or light tearaway or 1 layer of Hydrostick tearaway
**Hooping will leave "hoop burn" on Cotton Sateen fabrics. Hoop 1 sheet of Light Sticky Back Sheets, score the paper covering the sticky surface and remove. Adhere your fabric to the hoop.
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Corduroy
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Sharp size 12 or 14
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**Hooping will leave "hoop burn" on corduroy. Hoop 1 sheet of Light Sticky Back Sheets, score the paper covering the sticky surface and remove. Adhere your fabric to the hoop. Then slide 1 layer of light tearaway underneath the hoop.
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The nap on Corduroy will poke through the design after 1 or 2 washings. Place 1 layer of Fabric Solvy or Tear and Wash on top of your hooped fabric
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Denim, such as a shirt or dress
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Sharp size 12 or 14
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Hoop with 1 layer of Medium Tearaway or 2 layers of Light Tearaway
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Denim with lycra
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Sharp size 12 or 14
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Hoop with 1 layer of Medium Cutaway and slide with 1 layer of Light Cutaway underneath the hoop or Hoop with 1 layer of Heavy Cutaway
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Golf shirt or T-shirts
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Ball size 11 or 12
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Spray backing to be used with 505 or KK100 to adhere it to the fabric Hoop with 1 layer of No-Show Stabilizer and or LCM PolyMesh soft and sheer
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Optional: Add 1 layer of Light WSS by the yard on top of the hoop
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Soft leather
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Leather needle
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**Hooping will leave "hoop burn" on soft leather. Hoop 1 layer of LCM Light Sticky back sheets or 1 layer of Peel and Stick or 1 layer of medium cutaway, sprayed with KK100 or 505 and adhere the leather to your hoop
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Lingerie/Silks
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Ball size 10 or 11
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Hoop with 2 layers of Tear and Wash or hoop with 2 layers of light tearaway
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Quilted fabric
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Sharp size 11, 12 or 14
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Hoop with 1 layer of Medium Tearaway or 1 layer of Fuse and Tear
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Sweater or Sweatshirt Knits
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Ball size 12 or 14
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Hoop with 1 layer of Heavy Tearaway square or 2 layers of Medium Tearaway
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1 layer LCM Light WSS by the yard on top or Fabric Solvy or Tear and Wash on top
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Terry Cloth
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Ball size 12 or 14
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Hoop with 1 layer of Gunold Light Tearaway and slide 1 layer of Gunold Light Tearaway under the hoop or hoop with 1 layer of Medium Tearaway
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1 layer of LCM Light WSS by the yard or Fabric Solvy or Tear and Wash
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Sometimes you just need to jump in and get started. Knowing which weight of
stabilizer you should use will come with practice!
Check our chart at the bottom of this page for recommended stabilizers per fabric
Sometimes it happens that you stitch a design on a garment, only to see "outline
drift". Is it the design that is the problem? Or the Stabilizer?
If you have outline drift and don't know whether it's from improper stabilizing or a
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